Cultural Experiences

Last weekend, C and I attended “Fast A Day with Fanar” with another couple . In the “Time Out Doha” that was kindly put in our hotel room, I saw an ad for this event in their Ramadan issue. Touted as “Best for Culture”, it was a free event for expats to learn more about Ramadan and experience a traditional Iftar feast. So we signed up and off we went last Saturday to the Islamic Cultural Centre in the beautiful Fanar Building.

The instructions for the event suggested to fast by starting after breakfast, but we weren’t quite ready for that in the heat. We arrived there around 5 and there was a short presentation and Q&A session on Ramadan. In the auditorium, men and women were separated to different sides.

The presentation was good and I learned a few things.

To recap some of it: Ramadan is the Holy Month for Muslims and fasting during Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam. It is the 9th month of the lunar calendar which is why Ramadan “moves” each year and the month in which God revealed the first verses of the Qur’an where revealed. The lunar calendar is approximately 11 days shorter than the Gregorian calendar (which is the calendar that is generally used worldwide). Every 33 years, the lunar calendar completes it’s cycle. During the Holy Month, Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset. They abstain from drinking, eating and sexual activities. Chewing gum and even drinking water are prohibited. More than that, it is a time for them to connect with God. Therefore, they don’t lie, gossip, slander and they are encouraged to be extra generous and charitable to their fellow man and those less fortunate. Charitable giving is encouraged. Each night, 1/30th of the Qur’an (which is in approximately 30 parts) is read aloud (whether that is in the Mosque or at home among families) and the intent is that by the time Ramadan is over, the entire book has been read.

Unfortunately, there were some people in the crowd who wanted to get “into” discussions about the religion with the presenter (who handled the questions well) but these people ate up the time of those of us who actually wanted to hear about Ramadan itself!

After the presentation, the women were taken to get an abaya and head scarves. We put these on and then we met the men and “breaking the fast” was explained to us. This is referred to as Iftar and happens as the sun sets after the call to prayer. Traditionally dates are eaten along with some milk, Arabic coffee or water. People typically gather together to break the fast. After this, there is a prayer to thank God (Allah) called Maghrib. Muslims pray five times a day and Maghrib is the fourth prayer of the day (dusk prayer). We went to the Mosque in the building and watched the prayer (again, men and women are separated).

After we watched the prayer we had a traditional feast of Qatari/Arabic food – I wish I had been able to catch the names – but there was roast chicken with a rice that had saffron and raisins and these small red things (almost like currants?). There was pureed lamb mixed with cracked wheat (didn’t mind being a celiac for that one!). Another dish had all kinds of vegetables mixed with chicken and sauce and with a crepe-like thing on top. There was a milk/yogurt drink as well. Dessert was fruit, dumpling like fried bread balls (again, a no-go for me) and this sticky, thick jelly that was peach-ish in colour and tasted of cinnamon and cardamom.

Then last night was Garangao (Festival of the Children) where kids dress up in fancy clothes and go around with special bags and receive sweets...sound familiar? Perhaps the Western influence here explains why some kids replaced the traditional clothes to look like ghosts and zombies?!

Tomorrow night we are going to the Ritz Carlton (woo hoo) for a kind of Sahour. Typically, Sahour is the last meal eaten before the sun rises, but here the Iftar feasts (short, light meals) tend to transition into Suhoor banquets that last from 8pm until 2am. They have transformed their main ballroom into an Arabic tent and in additional to the banquet there will be live cooking stations, Lebanese band, falconry, henna tattoos, Egyptian dancers and a mini souq (market). Even better still, we have managed to invite ourselves with a group of people (19!) who are going (I work with two of the 19 attending...so it will be an adventure all around!)

Islamic Cultural Centre (Fanar Building)
Sporting the abaya and head scarf...
After breaking the fast
The Feast (note the lamb and wheat mixture with the yellow spoon...yummy?!)
Chicken, rice and the laban drink in the bottle..